Woven History…
Our latest delivery of shirting includes a range of styles with deep historical roots and practical origins. From rugged hickory stripes and classic tartans to ombre checks, Atomic Age prints, and Oxford button-downs, these designs have evolved over decades shaped by workwear needs, cultural movements, and shifts in everyday fashion.




Hickory stripe originated in 19th-century American workwear, quickly becoming the fabric of choice for durable garments like work shirts, overalls, and jackets. It was especially popular among railroad workers, mechanics, and carpenters due to its hard-wearing nature and practical design. The name “hickory stripe” likely references the hickory tree, known for its tough, resilient wood, highlighting the fabric’s strength and suitability for demanding labour. Famously associated with railroad engineers, it earned the nickname “engineer stripe.” Beyond its distinctive indigo-and-white pattern, the alternating narrow stripes served a functional purpose: they helped disguise grease, soot, and grime, making hickory stripe ideal for hands-on, industrial work.
Plaid, originally known as tartan, has its roots in Scottish heritage, where distinct check patterns were used to identify different clans. Woven from wool, these patterns became symbols of regional and familial identity. By the 19th century, plaid spread beyond Scotland and became widely used in European and American workwear thanks to industrial textile production.
In the 20th century, it evolved into a fashion staple appearing in everything from rugged flannel shirts to punk and grunge movements, cementing its place as a versatile and enduring pattern in global style.
The Ombre technique, gradually fading from light to dark, has been used in fabric design for centuries, though it often took a back seat to more traditional patterns like tartan. This gradual blending of hues, particularly within a plaid structure, represents a fusion of the old and the new, much like the spirit of Rats as a brand.
In its early days, ombre fabrics were created using hand-dyeing methods or printing blocks that allowed colours to flow seamlessly. This effect was often seen in the industrial workwear of the late 19th century, where the fading tones not unlike the hickory stripe, helped mask dirt and grime, making it ideal for laborious tasks.



The Windowpane check pattern, with roots in traditional textile designs, became popular in the early 20th century, likely influenced by grid-like patterns seen in tartan and gingham. Its large, clean lines made it distinct from denser patterns like plaid. In the 1950s and 1960s, the windowpane check gained traction in smart-casual and business wear, offering a modern, sophisticated look. A young Frank Sinatra was often seen wearing windowpane check suits, further cementing its association with elegance and refined style. Its minimalist, clean aesthetic made it a favourite among those seeking a subtle yet sophisticated pattern.
Atomic Age design refers to the period between 1940 and 1963, when concerns about nuclear war and the excitement of space exploration shaped Western culture. During this time, architecture, industrial design, advertising, and fashion were all heavily influenced by atomic and space-age motifs, featuring dynamic patterns like starbursts, boomerangs, and geometric shapes. In fashion, these bold, futuristic designs were paired with vibrant colours like turquoise, red, and mustard, reflecting the era’s sense of optimism and progress. The Atomic Age aesthetic became instantly recognisable, symbolising innovation and modernity in everything from shirting to accessories.



The Oxford shirt originated in the mid-19th century, named after Oxford University, where it was likely first worn by students as part of their uniform. Made from durable Oxford cloth, a textured fabric created using a basket weave, the shirt quickly became popular for its versatility and comfort. In 1896, the button-down collar was introduced, adding a structured, practical element to the shirt.
The button-down collar was first popularised in 1896 by John E. Brooks of Brooks Brothers, after he saw British polo players using buttons to keep their collars from flapping during matches. Inspired, he introduced the design in America, where it quickly caught on not for sport, but for everyday wear.
By the early 20th century, the Oxford shirt had transitioned into mainstream fashion, particularly gaining traction among Ivy League students in the post-war era. Its timeless appeal and durable fabric have made it a staple in both casual and formal wear throughout the decades.
The Western shirt originated in the late 19th century as practical workwear for cowboys, ranchers, and miners on the American frontier. Made from durable fabrics like denim or flannel, these shirts were designed to withstand the tough conditions of daily labor.
Key identifying features include snap buttons, pointed yokes (the shoulder panels), and flap pockets, which were practical for workers needing easy access to tools and gear. The Western shirt gained mainstream popularity in the 1930s and 1940s through Hollywood films, where actors like John Wayne wore them, cementing their association with rugged cowboy culture.
By the 1950s and 1960s, they became a staple in rockabilly and country musicscenes, evolving into both a practical and fashionable item. Today, the Western shirt remains a symbol of American heritage, maintaining its distinctive design with a mix of functional details and stylish appeal.

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